The Hardest-Working Part of Your Enclosure
No part of a pool cage takes more abuse than the screen door. It gets slammed, leaned on, scratched by pets, and caught by the wind — dozens of times a day. Latches wear out, closers quit, hinges loosen, and the door screen itself shreds. A door that will not latch is not just annoying; it is a security gap and a storm risk.
What We Fix on Doors
- Torn door screens. Re-screened in standard or pet-resistant mesh — pet-resistant is the smart choice for doors dogs use.
- Latches and locks. Replaced or adjusted so the door actually catches and stays shut.
- Closers. Pneumatic closers that slam or do not close get replaced; we set the tension right.
- Hinges. Loose, bent, or corroded hinges re-hung or replaced.
- Frames. Bent door frames straightened or replaced — a door cannot latch in a twisted frame.
New Doors and Upgrades
When the door itself is done — corroded through, bent beyond straightening — we install new screen doors sized to your opening. Popular upgrades while we are at it: kick plates that armor the lower half against pets and feet, and pet doors for dogs that need in and out.
Storm Note
A door that blows open in a storm becomes a sail — it can tear itself off the hinges and take framing with it. Before hurricane season, every door in the enclosure should latch firmly and self-close. If yours does not, get it fixed now, not in June.
Anatomy of a Screen Door (and What Fails)
A pool enclosure screen door is a simple machine with five failure points:
- The mesh. Shreds from pet claws, feet, and daily contact. The most visible failure — and the easiest to fix.
- The latch. Wears out from thousands of cycles. A latch that does not catch is a door that stands open.
- The closer. The pneumatic tube that shuts the door. When it quits, the door slams or hangs open.
- The hinges. Loosen and corrode, especially in salt air. A sagging door will not latch no matter how good the latch is.
- The frame. Bends from wind, impacts, and being forced. A twisted frame defeats every other part.
When we look at a door, we check all five — because fixing the mesh on a door with a dead closer just means you will be calling us back for the closer.
Our Process: Door Diagnosis to Done
- Full-door inspection. We check mesh, latch, closer, hinges, and frame alignment — the whole system, not just the complaint.
- Written quote. Repair vs. replace, itemized: which parts, which mesh, the total. If the frame is twisted beyond straightening, we will tell you the door needs replacing, not repairing.
- Repair or install. Repairs happen in one visit in most cases. New doors get measured, ordered to size, and installed — hung plumb, latch adjusted, closer tensioned.
- Adjustment. Every door gets tuned before we leave: latches that catch cleanly, closers that shut firmly without slamming, no dragging or rubbing.
What Screen Door Work Costs
Door rescreening typically runs in the same range as a large panel replacement. Hardware — latches, closers, hinges — adds per part, and a full new door is a bigger line item than a repair. Kick plates and pet doors are quoted separately. As always, these are starting ranges; your written quote is the real number and it is free. The final written price is fixed before we start — no surprises.
Storm-Proofing Your Doors
Before every hurricane season, walk your enclosure and test every door: does it latch firmly? Does the closer shut it all the way? A door that blows open in a storm becomes a sail — it can rip off its hinges and take framing with it, turning a $200 door fix into a $2,000 frame repair. This is the cheapest storm prep on the enclosure. If a door is marginal in May, fix it before June.
When to Replace Instead of Repair
Repair wins when the frame is straight and solid — new mesh, new hardware, tuned up, good for years. Replace when the frame is bent beyond straightening, corroded through, or has been repaired so many times the screw holes are stripped out. We will show you the frame honestly and let the metal make the case.